Choosing the wrong fabric kills a product before it launches. The fit looks off, the weight feels cheap, or the fabric pills after three washes — and by then you’ve already paid for bulk production. This guide covers the fabrics most commonly used in OEM clothing manufacturing, what they’re suited for, and what to specify when working with a factory.
Cotton and Cotton Blends — The Default Starting Point
Cotton is the most widely sourced fabric in apparel manufacturing. It breathes well, takes dye evenly, and works across a wide range of product categories — from basic T-shirts to heavyweight hoodies.
The two most common constructions are jersey (single-knit, used for T-shirts and lightweight tops) and French terry (loopback knit, used for sweatshirts and hoodies). GSM — grams per square meter — determines weight. A 180gsm jersey runs lightweight and drapey; a 320gsm French terry feels dense and structured.
Cotton-poly blends (typically 80/20 or 60/40) reduce shrinkage and improve shape retention. Most factories in Dongguan and Guangdong stock both 100% cotton and blended options across a range of GSM weights. If your brand positions around softness and breathability, 100% combed ring-spun cotton at 200–240gsm is the standard spec for mid-market to premium basics.
Polyester and Performance Fabrics — Built for Activewear
Polyester is the base fabric for most activewear manufacturing. It doesn’t absorb moisture — it wicks it away from the skin — and it holds its shape through repeated washing better than natural fibers.
The most common performance constructions include:
- Interlock knit — smooth, double-knit structure used for leggings and fitted tops. Typically 200–250gsm.
- Scuba / Neoprene — thicker, structured fabric used for outerwear and athletic jackets. Holds shape without lining.
- Mesh — open-knit fabric used for panels, linings, and breathable activewear.
- 4-way stretch — polyester-spandex blend (usually 88/12) used for compression leggings, sports bras, and fitted athletic wear.
Spandex (also called elastane or Lycra) is almost always blended with polyester rather than used alone. A 5–12% spandex content gives garments stretch and recovery without compromising durability.
Nylon — Where Durability Matters More Than Cost
Nylon costs more than polyester but offers better abrasion resistance and a softer hand feel. It’s the right choice for outerwear shells, swimwear, and performance gear where durability is a primary requirement.
Common nylon fabrics include ripstop (lightweight, grid-weave structure that resists tearing — standard for outerwear manufacturing like windbreakers and shell jackets) and taslan (matte-finish nylon with a slightly textured surface, used for casual outerwear and pants). Both fabrics take DWR (durable water repellent) coatings well, which most outerwear buyers specify.
For brands building technical outerwear or outdoor-facing products, nylon ripstop at 40–70D (denier) is the typical specification range.
Denim — A Category on Its Own
Denim follows different sourcing logic than knit fabrics. It’s a woven fabric — typically 98% cotton, 2% elastane for stretch — and weight is measured in ounces per square yard rather than GSM. Standard denim for jeans runs 10–14oz; lighter weights (6–8oz) are used for denim shirts and jackets.
The main variables to specify when ordering denim from a clothing manufacturer are weight, stretch percentage, wash finish, and selvedge vs. open-end construction. Stonewash, acid wash, and raw (unwashed) are the most common finish options. PRP Apparel produces denim bottoms from 50 pieces per style, with custom wash finishing available in-house.
Linen and Tencel — Natural Alternatives With Growing Demand
Linen and Tencel (lyocell) are increasingly requested by brands targeting sustainability-conscious consumers.
Linen is a natural fiber derived from flax. It wrinkles easily but offers excellent breathability and a distinctive texture that reads as premium. It’s used for summer shirts, trousers, and casual dresses. Most linen fabrics run 140–200gsm.
Tencel is a semi-synthetic fiber made from wood pulp. It has a soft, smooth hand feel similar to rayon but with better moisture management and a lower environmental footprint. Brands use it for basics, dresses, and lounge pieces where drape and softness matter. Tencel-cotton blends are common and easier to source than 100% Tencel from most Chinese mills.
Both fabrics command slightly higher material costs than cotton basics but appeal to brands with an eco-positioning.
How to Specify Fabric When Working With a Factory
Factories can’t quote accurately without a clear fabric specification. When you contact PRP Apparel or any OEM clothing manufacturer, have the following ready:
Fiber content — e.g., 100% cotton, 95% polyester 5% spandex, 80% nylon 20% polyester.
Construction — jersey, French terry, ripstop, interlock, woven, etc. If you have a physical reference fabric, send a swatch — it removes ambiguity faster than any written description.
Weight (GSM or oz) — specify the target range, not just a single number. Factories source from available mill stock; a range of ±15gsm gives them flexibility without compromising your product.
Certifications — if your brand requires OEKO-TEX Standard 100, GOTS (organic cotton), or GRS (recycled content), state this upfront. Certified fabric costs more and narrows mill options, but it’s achievable from most Guangdong-based suppliers.
Color — Pantone reference or physical swatch. Do not describe color in words.
FAQ
Q1: What fabrics does PRP Apparel work with?
PRP Apparel works with cotton, polyester, nylon, spandex blends, denim, linen, Tencel, and technical performance fabrics. The factory sources from certified mills across Guangdong and Zhejiang provinces. For specialty fabrics — recycled polyester, organic cotton, or technical membranes — share your spec and the team will confirm availability and lead time before sampling begins.
Q2: What GSM should I choose for hoodies?
Most mid-weight hoodies run 280–320gsm in French terry or fleece. Lightweight hoodies for layering sit around 240–260gsm. Premium, structured hoodies typically spec 340gsm and above. The right weight depends on your price point, target season, and whether the garment is intended for everyday wear or athletic use.
Q3: Can I request fabric certifications like OEKO-TEX or GOTS?
Yes. PRP sources OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certified fabric on request. GOTS-certified organic cotton is available for basics and knitwear. These certifications add to material cost and may extend lead times slightly, so flag the requirement at the inquiry stage rather than after sampling.
Q4: Do you help with fabric selection if I don’t have a spec?
Yes. If you have a reference garment or a clear description of what you want the fabric to feel like, PRP’s team can recommend options from available mill stock and send fabric swatches before sampling. This is common for brands that are still in early development and haven’t finalized their material specs.
Q5: What is the minimum order quantity for custom fabric colors?
Custom fabric dyeing typically requires a minimum of 100–200kg per colorway, which translates to roughly 300–500 garments depending on the product. For orders below that threshold, PRP works from available stock colors. Pantone color matching from stock is possible for most standard colors.
Got your fabric direction sorted? Send your spec or reference swatch via WhatsApp at +8615899926902, or fill in the inquiry form at https://prpapparel.com/contact/. The team responds within 24 hours.