Fabric Types and GSM: What Clothing Brands Need to Know When Selecting Materials for Manufacturing

One of the first questions a clothing manufacturer will ask you is: “What fabric do you want to use?” If you don’t have a clear answer, the conversation stalls. Fabric choice determines how your garment looks, how it feels, how much it costs to produce, and whether your customers come back for more. Understanding fabric types and GSM is not optional—it’s the foundation of every clothing line that works.

This guide covers the most common fabric types used in apparel manufacturing, explains what GSM actually means for your product, and gives you a practical framework for selecting the right material when you talk to your factory.

Why Fabric Choice Matters More Than You Think

New brand owners often spend weeks perfecting their logo and packaging, then pick a fabric based on what they liked in a retail store. That approach backfires. Fabric sourced without understanding its properties leads to production delays, quality complaints, and inventory that doesn’t sell.

Every fabric type behaves differently during cutting, sewing, and washing. Cotton shrinks. Polyester pills under friction. Knits stretch out of shape if handled wrong. A factory needs to know the exact fabric composition and weight to set the right cutting parameters, needle size, thread tension, and finishing process. Get this wrong, and your first production run turns into a costly lesson.

Beyond production, fabric choice directly affects your pricing. The difference between a lightweight cotton voile and a heavyweight cotton twill can be 40% or more in material cost alone. If you quote your buyer based on the wrong fabric price, your margin disappears.

What Is GSM and Why Should You Care

GSM stands for grams per square meter. It measures fabric weight. The higher the GSM, the heavier and thicker the fabric. This is the single most important specification you will communicate to your manufacturer, because it determines the feel, durability, and cost of your garment.

Here is how GSM breaks down across common apparel categories:

GSM Range	Weight	Common Uses
100–150 GSM	Lightweight	T-shirts, summer dresses, blouses, linings
150–250 GSM	Medium weight	Polo shirts, hoodies, casual jackets, sweatshirts
250–350 GSM	Heavy weight	Sweatshirts, fleece jackets, denim, trousers
350+ GSM	Extra heavy	Coats, workwear, upholstery-grade fabrics

A typical budget T-shirt from standard jersey cotton falls around 150–180 GSM. Premium T-shirts from brands like AS Colour or Bella+Canvas use 180–200 GSM. A hoodie body usually runs 280–320 GSM. If you ask a factory for a “heavy hoodie” without specifying GSM, you might get anything from 240 to 400 GSM—and the price difference is substantial.

When you send a tech pack to your manufacturer, always include the target GSM. If you are unsure, request a GSM swatch book from your fabric supplier before confirming the order. This small step saves big headaches.

Common Fabric Types Used in Apparel Manufacturing

Knowing the basic fabric categories helps you communicate clearly with your factory. Here are the fabrics you will encounter most often in B2B clothing production.

Cotton

Cotton is the most widely used natural fiber in apparel. It breathes well, takes dye easily, and feels comfortable against skin. The main variations are:

Jersey knit — soft, stretchy, used for T-shirts and casual tops. Typically 140–200 GSM.
French terry — looped inside, smooth outside. Used for hoodies and joggers. Typically 240–320 GSM.
Cotton twill — diagonal weave, sturdy. Used for chinos, work shirts, and caps. Typically 200–300 GSM.
Cotton poplin — crisp, lightweight. Used for button-down shirts and dresses. Typically 100–150 GSM.
Cotton canvas — heavy, durable. Used for bags, aprons, and workwear. Typically 300–500 GSM.

Polyester and Blends

Polyester is a synthetic fiber valued for its strength, wrinkle resistance, and quick drying. Most clothing brands don’t use 100% polyester—they use blends that combine polyester with cotton or other fibers.

CVC (Chief Value Cotton) — 60% cotton, 40% polyester. Good middle ground for polo shirts and uniforms.
TC (Terylene Cotton) — 65% polyester, 35% cotton. Common in workwear and school uniforms.
Polyester microfiber — very fine fibers, used for sportswear and performance tops. Typically 80–120 GSM.

Specialty Fabrics

Nylon — strong, lightweight, water-resistant. Used for outerwear and athletic gear.
Rayon / Viscose — semi-synthetic, drapes well. Used for dresses and blouses.
Bamboo — marketed as eco-friendly, soft. Used for underwear and loungewear.
Linen — natural fiber, breathable, wrinkles easily. Used for summer clothing.
Denim — cotton twill with indigo dye. Weight ranges from 6 oz (light) to 14 oz+ (heavy).

How to Choose the Right Fabric for Your Product

Here is the decision framework used by experienced sourcing managers when selecting fabric types and GSM for a new product:

Define the end use. Is this a summer T-shirt, a winter hoodie, or athletic wear? The season and activity drive the weight and fiber choice.
Set a target price point. Low-cost basics can use lower GSM combed cotton or CVC blends. Premium products need higher GSM with better fiber quality and finishing.
Match fabric properties to garment function. Activewear needs moisture-wicking polyester or nylon blends. Casual knits work with cotton jersey or French terry. Outerwear requires wind-resistant weaves and sometimes a DWR (durable water repellent) coating.
Order strike-off samples. Never approve a bulk fabric order without seeing a physical sample. Colors look different on screen, and hand feel cannot be judged from a digital image.
Test for shrinkage and color fastness. A standard factory test washes a sample three to five times. If the fabric shrinks more than 3–5%, you need to pre-wash or switch materials.

Most Chinese fabric suppliers offer free A4-sized swatches for established buyers. If you are working with a new manufacturer, ask them to send GSM books or swatch cards before committing to a bulk order.

Working with Your Manufacturer on Fabric Sourcing

When you send an inquiry to a clothing manufacturer, include the following fabric details:

Fiber composition (e.g., 100% cotton, 65/35 poly-cotton)
Fabric construction (jersey, fleece, twill, poplin, etc.)
Target GSM range
Required color (PMS code preferred)
Any special finishes (anti-pilling, enzyme wash, water resistant)

A good manufacturer will source fabric from their existing suppliers at better prices than you can get on your own. Factories buy in bulk—thousands of meters per roll—so their per-meter cost is significantly lower. If you have a specific fabric brand in mind, ask whether the factory has a direct supply relationship before trying to source it yourself.

Be aware that lead time for custom fabric weaving or dyeing is typically 30 to 45 days on top of garment production. If you choose a stock fabric that the factory already carries, you cut that down to zero. For smaller brands with limited cash flow, stock fabrics are often the smarter choice.

Frequently Asked Questions

What GSM is best for T-shirts?

For standard adult T-shirts, 150 to 180 GSM in 100% combed cotton jersey is the most common range. Budget T-shirts go down to 130 GSM, while premium T-shirts run 180 to 200 GSM for a heavier, more durable feel.

How do I know what fabric type to use for my clothing line?

Start by looking at similar products from established brands in your segment. If you are making hoodies, check the GSM and composition of hoodies from brands you admire. Then request swatches from your manufacturer and compare the hand feel, drape, and weight against your reference garments.

What is the difference between knit and woven fabric?

Knit fabric is made from interlocking loops, which gives it stretch and flexibility. Woven fabric is made from threads crossing at right angles, which makes it more structured and less stretchy. T-shirts are knits. Button-down shirts are wovens. Each behaves differently during cutting, sewing, and wear.

Can I request a specific GSM from my factory?

Yes, and you should. Include the target GSM in your tech pack or specification sheet. Most Chinese fabric suppliers offer standard GSM options within each fabric category. If you need a non-standard weight, expect a MOQ of 500 to 1000 meters per color and longer delivery times.

What fabric types work best for activewear?

Activewear typically uses polyester, nylon, or elastane blends for moisture wicking and stretch. Common options include 100% polyester microfiber (80–120 GSM) for lightweight tops, or nylon-spandex blends (180–220 GSM) for leggings and compression wear. Cotton is not recommended for high-intensity activewear because it absorbs sweat and stays wet.

Fabric selection is one of those decisions that looks simple from the outside but gets complex fast once you dive in. The good news is you don’t need to become a textile expert. You just need to learn the basics—fabric types, GSM, and how to communicate what you want to your manufacturer. Once you have those fundamentals, every sourcing conversation becomes more productive, every sample round comes back closer to what you imagined, and your end product stands a much better chance of selling.

If you are working on a new clothing line and need help selecting the right fabric types and GSM for your product, contact PRP Apparel. We handle fabric sourcing, sampling, and production for brands importing from China.